Hotel Homebase: Fredricksburg, Texas
Considered the cycling capital of Texas, Hill Country spreads out a lush welcome mat of cheery bluebonnets each spring. Kick back in a rustic cabin, inn, or guest-house in the historic town of Fredericksburg to recharge your batteries among the bountiful blooms of the Texas countryside.
By Gigi Ragland
WHY VISIT
Warm western hospitality flows deep in the heart of Hill Country, where you will be treated to panoramic vistas of the area’s rolling hills and wildflower-carpeted meadows along with some surprising rocky features topping out the terrain. The old-world feel of German-influenced Fredericksburg combined with Texas cowboy charm will keep you entertained between full days of outdoor adventures.
CULTURE
“Willkommen, y’all!” Don’t be surprised if you hear a friendly local greet you with this sort of Texas-German lingo. Fredericksburg was settled by German pioneers more than 160 years ago and named after Prince Frederick of Prussia. From the architecture, music, and festivals to even the bier and brats, the area is infused with old-world flavor. Plus, Texas Wine Country lies right outside town and country music honkytonks offer options to liven up the evenings.
OUTDOOR SPORTS
Road cycling, mountain biking, hiking, rock climbing, and trail running.
LANDSCAPE
Just 70 miles northwest of San Antonio and 80 miles west of Austin, Fredericksburg is far enough away from the crowds but still conveniently less than a two-hour drive from either big city. Winding roads lead to picturesque villages and state parks with miles of rolling hills in between. Cutting through ranches and farmland are narrow rivers and quiet creeks bearing names that belong in country-western songs, like the The Llano, Blanco, Guadalupe, and Honey Creek.
TEMPERATURE
Spring temperatures range from the mid-60s to mid-70s during the day with 50-degree averages at night. Expect spring showers from April to June.
NEAREST AIRPORT
San Antonio International or Austin International Airport.
Pack your boots (cowgirl style!), rustle up your biking, hiking, and climbing gear then head for the hills, as in Texas Hill Country. Texas is known for all things big in size. After all, it is the second biggest state in the Union. But there is more than meets the eye in this land of big hair, big steaks, and big trucks. Go beyond the cities and you will see what has drawn so many pioneers to settle in Gillespie County, a gem of rolling hills in a state better known for its expansive pancake-flat landscape.
While the settlers might have used horses and covered wagons to get around, it is probably best to rent a car at the airport because-depending on the activities you choose-you’ll likely have to cover long distances to the trail-heads and climbing spots. Having a car will allow you freedom to roam beyond Fredericksburg into the far reaches of Gillespie County. Plus, you will definitely need to give those cowgirl boots a work out in the “blink and you’ll miss it” tiny town of Luckenbach, Texas. Originally a trading post in 1849, it’s where you can dance to some of the best twosteppin’ country music in Texas.
Stroll along Fredericksburg’s Haupstrasse (the town’s main street) and observe the fine gingerbread cutouts and wrought iron details of the buildings, influenced architecturally by nineteenth-century German settlers. You will see evidence of a proud heritage alive and well in daily life today, including German-style biergartens, which offer a fine way to pass the afternoon after an über hike or bike ride.
THINGS TO DO
HIKING
An abundance of private and state parks offer dozens of hiking trails in the area. You can explore along creek beds and rivers, in meadows full of wildflowers, or on nature paths. Plus, you can hike to heritage sites, like the Lyndon B. Johnson State Park and Historic Site, and wander in woodlands, picnicking wherever you chose. There’s something for everyone.
ROAD BIKING
Fredericksburg offers a bounty of local rides to please every level of cyclist. We recommend you patronize local bike shops and ask about local cycling clubs or suggested rides. Hill Country Bicycles sells a sweet lineup of riding gear and also rents Specialized road bikes, fitness hybrids, and Electra Townies. The shop’s website offers info about group rides and links to trail maps. For more route maps, check out cycletexas.com and texasvelo.com.
MOUNTAIN BIKING
Numerous parks in Gillespie County feature mountain bike trails but, for some serious cross-country riding, spend a day at Flat Rock Ranch. This mostly singletrack trail system is privately owned by Jimmy and Terri Dreiss, who cut, carved, and designed every trail. The ranch-a labor of love, sweat, and possibly tears (while in the saddle!)-has been in the family for more than 100 years and now raises Black Angus cattle and Angora goats. Chances are, you will see some of the bovines and their furry friends grazing out in the pastures and on rocky ridges. The trails challenge the best of mountain bikers with grinding climbs, long downhill sections, and technical singletrack, along with several creek crossings. The five-mile No Sweat Loop is good for families, and laps on the 11mile Upper Loop or 15mile Lower Loop will satisfy intermediate and advanced riders. Races like The Texas Chainring Massacre 6-Hour Race, The Guts-N-Glory 12-Hour Endurance Ride, and the STORM (South Texas Off-Road Mountain Bikers) Hill Country MTB Challenge have taken place there. So you’re sure to experience adventure on these 27 miles of rugged trail. Single day riding passes cost $7, and a camping and riding pass costs $10. (Night rides are allowed and encouraged!) flatrockranch.net
Explore more Hill Country trails in Pedernales Falls State Park and the Hill Country State Natural Area.
ROCK CLIMBING
A hot spot for learning to climb, Enchanted Rock State Natural Area draws lots of beginner rock climbers and ardent technical climbers. In Hill Country, it is the premier place to rock climb. The 425foot pink granite dome covers 640 acres and is a magical place at 1,825 feet above sea level. The entire natural area encompasses 1,643 acres on Big Sandy Creek and features interesting hiking trails as well, including the four-mile Loop Trail circling the park. Plan to hike the Summit Trail, which climbs 425 feet in just over half a mile, for great views from the top of Enchanted Rock. Peak season in the park runs from March to June because it’s when views are the prettiest, thanks to abundant blooming wildflowers coloring the valley floor. The park’s website lists outfitters and guide services that provide guided rock climbing activities, lessons, weekend clinics, and more.
VOLKSSPORT
For something new, try European “volkssporting,” an organized, noncompetitive walk, run, or bike ride that is meant to be social, scenic, and relatively short. Fredericksburg started the first organized Volkssport club in the U.S.
ACCOMMODATION
Unique to Fredericksburg are Sunday Houses. Long ago, on weekends, farming and ranching families came into town to go to church, shop, and visit the community hall for meetings or festivities. They built small two-story houses (Sunday Houses) to overnight in town while on their weekly trips. Some of the guest-houses offered to tourists today are modeled after the charming limestone or wooden structures of that time period.
Retreats with chic style, like Sunday Houses, are a specialty in this part of Texas and they serve well as Hotel Homebases, too. Here are our picks for enjoying sunsets from the porch after a day in the outdoors.
Town Creek Log Cabin
One-story cabin
Step back in time while bunking at this reconstructed 150-year-old Kentucky log cabin one block from the historic Haupstrasse. There’s something about a rocker on a porch that lulls you into relax mode. And, luckily, this in-town hideaway’s backyard faces a creek and a neatly maintained herb and flower garden. Cozy up on the leather sofa across from the fireplace with a book and glass of local wine or bier. Then, enjoy a night of sweet dreams on the shabby chic queen bed. From $135.
Palo Alto Creek Farm
Four Guest Houses
This charming farmstead was first settled in 1854 by a German immigrant for his bride, but the hilltop property near Palo Alto Creek still evokes a sense of timelessness. All the limestone buildings are original and have been lovingly restored to accommodate guests in style. The four buildings: The Barn, The Hideaway, The Log Cabin, and The Itz House each have their own personality plus fully equipped kitchens, whirlpool tubs, and fireplaces. Each guest-house is exquisitely decorated with local furnishings, artwork, and antiques without looking kitschy. The resident goats and cattle are apt to crowd the fence to get a better look as you enter the long gravel driveway. But they add to the country charm of this peaceful retreat where you will truly feel like you are getting away from it all-even though you are only a few miles from town. From $140.
Cyclismo
Bed and Breakfast
The owner of this two-suite, Victorian bed and breakfast is an avid cyclist who can recommend riding options in the area. Who knows, maybe he’ll even invite you out for a spin and show you the sights! The bed and breakfast offers storage for bikes if you bring your own. The ground-floor unit boasts a deck perfect for noshing on local baked goods for breakfast, while the upper level features a balcony where you can sip your morning coffee before heading out on a bike ride or run. Each kitchen is stocked with local beers, wine, and chocolate. You’ll enjoy all the homey touches in these contemporary suites located two blocks from historic Haupstrasse. From $125.
Category: US
